Why Go Electric?
The Ford F-100 is one of the best candidates in the classic truck world for an electric conversion. The body-on-frame design gives you a wide, flat frame with plenty of room to mount battery modules between the rails. The cab sits high enough to hide the hardware underneath, and the bed offers additional space for battery packs or charging equipment. Unlike a unibody car, a truck frame lets you distribute weight exactly where you want it.
There is also a practical argument. Many F-100s sit in garages because their original drivetrain is tired, the flathead is hard to source parts for, or the fuel system needs a full overhaul. Instead of rebuilding a 60-year-old engine or doing a traditional engine swap, an electric conversion lets you keep the body and frame you love while gaining a powertrain that may outlast everything else on the truck.
Then there is the driving experience. An electric F-100 delivers instant torque from zero RPM, cruises in near silence, and requires almost no routine drivetrain maintenance. No oil changes, no coolant flushes, no timing chain replacements. The “silent cruiser” appeal is real. Imagine rolling through a car show or down a country road with nothing but the hum of an electric motor and the sound of wind and tires. It turns heads because nobody expects silence from a 1970s pickup.
Ford’s Proof of Concept: The Eluminator F-100
Ford gave the classic truck EV conversion movement a massive credibility boost at SEMA 2021 when they unveiled the F-100 Eluminator concept. Built on a 1978 F-100 body, this truck used a pair of Mustang Mach-E GT Performance Edition traction motors (one driving the front axle, one driving the rear) to produce 480 horsepower and 634 lb-ft of torque through an all-wheel-drive setup.
Ford Performance collaborated with MLe Racecars to engineer the powertrain integration, while Roadster Shop built a custom chassis underneath. The result was a fully functional electric F-100 that could accelerate hard, stop well, and cruise silently.
More importantly, Ford simultaneously launched the Eluminator electric crate motor (part number M-9000-MACHE) for individual sale. This is the same Mach-E GT traction motor in a standalone package: 281 horsepower, 317 lb-ft of torque, a max speed of 13,800 RPM with a 9.05:1 gear ratio, and a weight of just 205 pounds. It measures roughly 22.4 inches long, 14.6 inches tall, and 13.6 inches wide. Ford sells it for around $3,900 to $4,095 with high- and low-voltage wiring harnesses included.
The catch: the Eluminator motor is the motor only. You still need to source a traction inverter, a battery pack, a battery management system, an onboard charger, a DC-DC converter, and a cooling system. Those components can add $15,000 to $40,000 or more to the build, depending on your approach. But as a foundation, the Eluminator gives you a factory-engineered, warranty-backed electric motor specifically marketed for conversions.
Conversion Approaches
There are three main paths to an electric F-100, and each one trades off cost, complexity, and hands-on involvement differently.
Turnkey Shop Builds
Companies like Foremost EV in Phoenix specialize in complete classic truck EV conversions. Their 1960 Ford F-100 build used dual Hyper 9 motors producing 260 horsepower and 692 lb-ft of wheel torque (after gear reduction), paired with a 78 kWh battery pack delivering approximately 200 miles of range. The truck was finished with upgraded suspension, brakes, and a full interior restoration.
Zero Labs in Los Angeles takes a platform-based approach, building a proprietary skateboard chassis with integrated batteries and motors. Their standard rear-motor setup produces 296 horsepower, with an optional dual-motor AWD configuration reaching 592 horsepower. Zero Labs has stated that F-100 and F-150 fitment is on their development roadmap.
Turnkey builds from established shops typically run $75,000 to $200,000 or more, depending on range, performance, and the level of restoration included. The advantage is that someone else handles the engineering, fabrication, and troubleshooting. You get a finished, driveable truck.
Kit-Based Conversions
Kit-based builds give you a structured middle ground. Current EV Motors offers what they describe as the first bolt-on EV conversion kit for 1973-1979 Ford F-Series trucks (including the F-100, F-150, F-250, and 1978-79 Bronco). Their kit includes a DANA SRI-300 electric motor with controller, a 30 or 60 kWh battery system, all mounting brackets and plates, minor electrical components, and optional accessories like power steering and HVAC. The kit is patented in the US and Canada.
Kit pricing typically starts with a $5,000 deposit, with total kit costs varying based on battery size and options. You still need to do the installation yourself or hire a shop, but the engineering and component sourcing is handled for you.
Full DIY Builds
A from-scratch DIY build gives you the most control and usually the lowest cost, but demands the highest skill level. TFLtruck’s “ChargeZilla” project is a well-documented example: they converted a 1965 Ford F-100 using dual NetGain Hyper 9 motors (combined output of 261 horsepower and 657 lb-ft of wheel torque after gear reduction) with 15 Tesla battery modules providing 52 kWh of capacity and roughly 120 miles of range. The build was a collaboration with Legacy EV and 101 Motors, and they documented the entire process on video. The total investment in components and labor approached $100,000 — though a simpler single-motor build can come in much lower.
For a DIY build, you will be sourcing individual components, designing adapter plates, fabricating battery boxes, and programming the battery management system. It is the most rewarding path if you have the skills, but it is not a weekend project.
Motor Options Compared
Choosing the right motor depends on your power targets, budget, and how much integration work you want to take on.
| Motor | Power | Torque | Weight | Voltage | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ford Eluminator | 281 hp | 317 lb-ft | 205 lbs | High voltage | Builders wanting a factory-backed motor with Ford heritage |
| NetGain Hyper 9 | 120 hp peak (per motor) | 173 lb-ft peak | 130 lbs | 62-130V | Budget-friendly DIY builds; can run dual motors |
| Tesla Model 3 Drive Unit (salvaged) | 280-350 hp | 300+ lb-ft | ~250 lbs | ~350V | Builders comfortable with salvage integration |
| DANA SRI-300 (via Current EV Motors kit) | Meets stock truck specs | N/A | N/A | N/A | Bolt-on kit buyers wanting simplicity |
The NetGain Hyper 9 is the most popular motor for grassroots EV conversions because of its compact size, proven reliability, and the availability of complete motor-and-controller packages. It operates at IE4 “Super Premium Efficiency” and delivers 30-40% more peak torque than comparable AC motors without rare-earth magnets. A single Hyper 9 works well for a lightweight around-town cruiser; dual Hyper 9s suit a truck that needs to tow or merge onto highways confidently.
Salvaged Tesla drive units offer tremendous power per dollar but require more expertise. You need to pair them with a third-party inverter controller (or crack the Tesla inverter firmware), source a compatible battery pack, and build a cooling loop. The integration is not trivial, but a growing community of builders and companies like EV West (now part of Amprius; verify current parts availability) and Legacy EV sell adapters and support packages.
Battery Pack Design and Sourcing
The battery pack is the single most expensive component in any EV conversion, typically accounting for 40-60% of the total build cost. Here are the main options.
Tesla Battery Modules
Tesla modules from salvaged Model S, Model 3, or Model Y packs are the most common choice for conversions. A salvaged Model 3 pack (75-82 kWh) can be sourced from wrecked vehicles for $6,500 to $11,500 depending on capacity and condition. Individual modules from Model S packs are also available and can be configured in custom arrangements to fit the frame.
Chevrolet Bolt Modules
Bolt battery modules are compact, well-documented, and available from salvage sources. They use a different cell chemistry than Tesla (pouch cells vs. cylindrical) and can be easier to package in tight spaces.
New Cells (DIY Pack Building)
For maximum control, some builders purchase new lithium iron phosphate (LFP) or nickel manganese cobalt (NMC) cells and build custom packs. This approach requires a deep understanding of cell balancing, thermal management, and pack construction safety. EVE, CATL, and Samsung SDI cells are popular choices.
Battery Sizing for an F-100
As a rough guide:
| Battery Capacity | Estimated Range | Weight Added | Typical Use Case |
|---|---|---|---|
| 30 kWh | 80-100 miles | ~450 lbs | Around-town cruiser, shows, short trips |
| 50-60 kWh | 120-160 miles | ~750-900 lbs | Suburban daily driver with occasional highway |
| 75-80 kWh | 180-220 miles | ~1,000-1,200 lbs | Highway-capable daily driver |
| 100+ kWh | 220-280 miles | ~1,400+ lbs | Maximum range, road trip capable |
These range estimates assume a classic truck with the aerodynamics of a brick wall, which is exactly what an F-100 is. Real-world range depends on speed, terrain, tire size, and driving style. Highway driving at 65-70 mph will cut range significantly compared to city driving.
Weight, Balance, and Handling
One of the underrated benefits of an EV conversion is what it does to weight distribution. A stock F-100 with a cast-iron V8 up front and an empty bed in back is nose-heavy, which makes it prone to understeer and gives the rear end a tendency to step out under braking. When you remove the engine, transmission, and fuel tank, you shed 500 to 800 pounds of concentrated front weight.
Battery modules mounted low in the frame rails — between the axles — drop the center of gravity and push the weight distribution closer to a balanced 50/50 or even a slightly rear-biased 48/52 split. The result is a truck that corners flatter, brakes straighter, and feels more planted than it ever did with a gas engine. Pairing this with a modern suspension upgrade transforms the driving dynamics entirely.
Regenerative braking is another benefit that classic truck owners underestimate. With a properly tuned regen system, you can do most of your slowing with the motor acting as a generator, feeding energy back into the battery pack. This extends range, reduces heat and wear on the brake pads and rotors, and gives you a satisfying one-pedal-driving feel in city traffic. For a truck with original drum brakes in the rear, regenerative braking is a genuine safety upgrade.
Cost Breakdown
EV conversions are not cheap. Here is a realistic breakdown of what each major component costs for a typical F-100 build.
| Component | Budget Build | Mid-Range Build | Premium Build |
|---|---|---|---|
| Electric motor(s) | $2,000-$4,000 | $4,000-$8,000 | $8,000-$15,000 |
| Battery pack | $5,000-$8,000 | $10,000-$18,000 | $18,000-$35,000 |
| Motor controller / inverter | $1,500-$3,000 | $3,000-$5,000 | $5,000-$8,000 |
| Battery management system (BMS) | $500-$1,500 | $1,000-$2,500 | $2,000-$4,000 |
| Onboard charger | $500-$1,500 | $1,500-$3,000 | $3,000-$5,000 |
| DC-DC converter (12V system) | $200-$500 | $400-$800 | $800-$1,200 |
| Wiring, contactors, fuses | $500-$1,000 | $1,000-$2,000 | $2,000-$3,500 |
| Adapter plates, mounts, fabrication | $1,000-$2,500 | $2,000-$4,000 | $3,000-$6,000 |
| Cooling system (motor + batteries) | $500-$1,500 | $1,500-$3,000 | $3,000-$5,000 |
| Electric power steering + brake booster | $500-$1,000 | $1,000-$2,000 | $1,500-$3,000 |
| Total (DIY labor) | $12,200-$24,500 | $25,400-$48,300 | $46,300-$85,700 |
| Add shop labor | +$5,000-$15,000 | +$10,000-$25,000 | +$20,000-$50,000 |
A bare-bones single-motor build with a small battery pack and salvaged components can come in under $20,000 if you do all the work yourself. A dual-motor, long-range build with professional fabrication and a polished installation will approach or exceed $100,000. Turnkey shop builds from companies like Foremost EV or Zero Labs start at $75,000 and can reach well over $150,000.
These costs do not include the truck itself, paint, interior, or supporting modifications like a frame swap or suspension work. Budget for the complete project, not just the powertrain.
Charging Infrastructure
Before committing to an EV conversion, think about how and where you will charge.
Level 1 (120V household outlet): Adds roughly 3-5 miles of range per hour of charging. Fine for overnight charging if you drive less than 40-50 miles per day. No installation cost; just plug in.
Level 2 (240V dedicated circuit): Adds 15-30 miles of range per hour depending on the onboard charger. This is the sweet spot for daily driving. A 240V outlet or hardwired EVSE costs $200 to $1,000 to install in a home garage.
DC Fast Charging: Most EV conversions do not support DC fast charging unless you specifically engineer it in. This limits you to Level 1 and Level 2 charging for the foreseeable future, which means long road trips require planning.
For most F-100 EV builds, a Level 2 charger in your garage is all you need. Plug in at night, wake up to a full charge, and enjoy the truck all day. If your daily driving is under 100 miles, even a modest 30-40 kWh battery pack keeps you comfortable.
Honest Pros and Cons
Advantages
- Instant torque from 0 RPM delivers a driving experience no gas engine can match at low speed
- Near-silent operation turns every drive into a unique experience and draws attention at shows
- Lower center of gravity improves handling and stability compared to the stock front-heavy layout
- Reduced maintenance eliminates oil changes, coolant, belts, spark plugs, and exhaust components
- Regenerative braking extends range and reduces brake wear
- Zero tailpipe emissions eliminate smog testing concerns in any jurisdiction
- Parts availability is not tied to a dwindling supply of 50-year-old engine components
Disadvantages
- High upfront cost makes this one of the most expensive modifications you can do to a truck
- Limited range compared to a gas tank, especially at highway speeds with truck aerodynamics
- No DC fast charging on most conversions limits road trip capability
- Charging time is measured in hours, not minutes at a gas pump
- Resale uncertainty because the market for converted EVs is still developing
- Loss of the V8 sound matters to some owners and can reduce the emotional connection to the truck
- Complexity of high-voltage systems requires knowledge of electrical safety and, in some jurisdictions, inspection or certification
- Weight penalty from batteries can exceed the weight saved by removing the engine and transmission
Safety Considerations
Working with high-voltage battery systems is inherently dangerous. A fully charged lithium-ion battery pack in an EV conversion operates at 300-400 volts DC, which is lethal. Before starting any EV conversion, invest in proper safety equipment: insulated gloves rated for high-voltage work, safety glasses, and a fire extinguisher rated for lithium battery fires (Class D or ABC dry chemical).
Install a manual high-voltage disconnect switch accessible from outside the cab. Use properly rated contactors, fuses, and wire gauges for every circuit. Route high-voltage cables in conduit or armored loom to prevent chafing. Mark all high-voltage components with standard orange wiring and warning labels. If you are not comfortable working with high-voltage DC systems, hire a professional. This is not the place to learn by trial and error.
Suppliers and Resources
Motors and Controllers: Ford Performance (Eluminator), NetGain Motors (Hyper 9 and Hyper 9 HV), EV West (now part of Amprius; verify current parts availability), Legacy EV, and ampREVOLT carry motor-and-controller packages for conversions.
Battery Packs and Modules: EV West (now part of Amprius; verify current parts availability), Legacy EV, and Greentec Auto sell new and salvaged battery modules. For Tesla-specific salvage, companies like EV Auto Parts and local salvage yards with EV inventory are good sources. Current EV Motors includes battery systems in their F-Series kits.
Complete Kits: Current EV Motors (1973-1979 Ford F-Series bolt-on kit), Legacy EV (component bundles for various platforms).
Turnkey Builders: Foremost EV (Phoenix), Zero Labs (Los Angeles), and various local shops specializing in EV conversions. Get references, see finished builds, and talk to previous customers before committing to a shop.
Community and Documentation: The DIY Electric Car Forums, EV Builder’s Guide, and the TFLtruck ChargeZilla video series are excellent resources for learning from real builds and connecting with experienced builders.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to convert a Ford F-100 to electric?
A DIY conversion with a single motor and a modest battery pack starts around $15,000 to $25,000 in components. A mid-range build with dual motors and 50-80 kWh of batteries runs $30,000 to $60,000. A turnkey shop build with premium components and full restoration starts at $75,000 and can exceed $150,000. Shop labor adds $5,000 to $50,000 depending on the scope of work.
How far can an electric F-100 drive on a full charge?
Range depends entirely on battery capacity. A 30 kWh pack delivers 80-100 miles, a 50-60 kWh pack provides 120-160 miles, and a 75-80 kWh pack reaches 180-220 miles. Real-world range is lower at highway speeds due to the truck’s flat-front aerodynamics. Foremost EV’s 1960 F-100 build with a 78 kWh pack achieves approximately 200 miles of range.
Can I charge an electric F-100 at public charging stations?
Most EV conversions support Level 2 (240V AC) charging, which is available at thousands of public stations. DC fast charging (like Tesla Superchargers or CCS stations) requires additional engineering and is not included in most conversion kits. For daily use, a Level 2 home charger is the most practical solution.
Does Ford sell an electric motor for conversions?
Yes. Ford Performance sells the Eluminator electric crate motor (part number M-9000-MACHE) for approximately $3,900 to $4,095. It produces 281 horsepower and 317 lb-ft of torque. The motor includes wiring harnesses but does not include a battery pack, inverter, charger, or battery management system. Those components must be sourced separately.
Will an EV conversion make my F-100 heavier?
It depends on the battery size. Removing the engine, transmission, fuel tank, exhaust, and cooling system saves 500 to 800 pounds. A 50-60 kWh battery pack adds roughly 750-900 pounds. A small-battery build can end up close to the original weight, while a long-range build will add several hundred pounds. The upside is that the added weight sits low in the frame, improving handling and stability.
Is an EV conversion reversible?
In most cases, yes. If you keep the original engine, transmission, and related components, you can reinstall them later. However, some conversions require cutting or modifying the frame for battery mounting, which makes reversal more difficult. Plan ahead if reversibility matters to you.
What happens to the transmission in an EV conversion?
Most EV conversions eliminate the transmission entirely. Electric motors produce maximum torque at zero RPM and do not need multiple gear ratios to stay in their power band. The motor typically connects to the driveshaft through a single-speed reduction gear or direct drive. This simplifies the drivetrain and eliminates one more maintenance item.
Not Ready for Full Electric?
An EV conversion is a major commitment in cost and complexity. If you want to modernize the drivetrain without going fully electric, an EFI conversion swaps the carburetor for electronic fuel injection, improving reliability, fuel economy, and drivability for a fraction of the cost. For a broader look at what it takes to build a truck you can drive every day, see the daily driver build guide. And for a realistic breakdown of what any F-100 restoration costs from start to finish, the restoration cost guide covers every major budget category.