F-100 Power Steering Conversion Guide

From Arm Workout to Finger-Tip Steering

If you have ever parallel-parked a manual-steering F-100, you know the drill: both hands on the wheel, arms burning, and a three-point turn that becomes a seven-point ordeal. Add wide tires and it gets worse. Even after Ford began offering power steering as a limited option in the late 1950s (third generation), and it became a more common factory option in the fourth generation (1961-1966), many trucks were ordered without it. Most survivors still have manual boxes today.

Power steering transforms how your F-100 drives. Low-speed maneuvering becomes effortless, highway cruising is less fatiguing, and the truck feels decades newer behind the wheel. If you plan to drive your F-100 regularly on modern roads, a power steering conversion ranks alongside a disc brake conversion as one of the most impactful upgrades you can make. It is not a luxury; it is a practical improvement that makes the truck safer and more enjoyable to drive.

The good news is that the aftermarket has matured significantly. Whether you want the simplicity of an electric assist unit, the familiar feel of a hydraulic power steering box, or the precision of a rack-and-pinion system, there is a well-developed solution for every F-100 generation.

Three Approaches to Power Steering

There are three distinct paths to adding power steering to your F-100. Each has different cost, complexity, and performance characteristics. The right choice depends on your budget, your mechanical ability, and what other upgrades you plan to make.

1. EPAS (Electric Power Assist Steering)

An EPAS kit replaces a section of your steering column shaft with an electric motor and electronic control module. The motor provides assist only when you turn the wheel, drawing power from a switched 12V source. There is no pump, no fluid, no belt routing, and no hoses to leak. EPAS is the newest technology available for F-100 conversions and the simplest to install.

How it works: The electric motor bolts inline on the steering column between the steering wheel and the steering box. A control module reads steering input through a torque sensor and provides proportional assist. Most kits include an adjustable potentiometer or electronic controller that lets you dial in the amount of assist (lighter for parking lots, firmer for highway driving).

Why builders choose EPAS:

• No hydraulic components to install, maintain, or leak
• No engine-driven pump means no belt routing, no parasitic power loss, and no pump noise
• Adjustable assist level lets you tune the steering feel to your preference
• Works with the factory steering box and column (no box swap required)
• Clean underhood appearance with no added hoses or brackets
• Draws only 9 amps under normal steering loads
• Typical installation takes 4 to 10 hours

Limitations:

• Higher upfront cost than a hydraulic box swap ($1,450 to $1,700)
• The electric motor adds a visible unit to the steering column under the dash
• Some drivers feel the assist is less natural than a hydraulic system, particularly at highway speeds
• The factory manual steering box remains, so the slow steering ratio does not change

2. Hydraulic Power Steering Box Swap

This is the traditional approach. You remove the manual steering box and install a power steering box in its place, then add an engine-driven power steering pump with a bracket, pulley, and high-pressure hoses. This method has been the standard F-100 power steering conversion for decades.

How it works: A power steering box replaces the manual box at the same frame-rail mounting location. The pump mounts to the engine using an aftermarket bracket (from suppliers like Alan Grove Components or Borgeson) and is driven by a V-belt or serpentine belt. High-pressure and return hoses connect the pump to the box. The system provides hydraulic assist through the entire steering range.

Why builders choose hydraulic:

• Most familiar feel, drives like a factory power steering truck
• Lower cost than EPAS ($400 to $900 for a complete kit)
• Faster steering ratio boxes are available (14:1 versus the factory 20:1 or higher)
• Proven technology with decades of service history
• Replacement parts (seals, pumps, hoses) are widely available

Limitations:

• Requires mounting a pump, routing a belt, and plumbing high-pressure hoses
• Hydraulic fluid can leak over time
• The pump draws parasitic horsepower from the engine (typically 3 to 5 hp)
• Pump noise is noticeable at idle on some installations
• More complex installation than EPAS (8 to 16 hours)

3. Rack-and-Pinion Conversion

Rack-and-pinion steering replaces the entire recirculating-ball steering box and linkage with a gear rack that provides direct, precise steering feel. This is the same type of steering used in modern cars and trucks. On an F-100, rack-and-pinion steering requires significant front suspension modification and is almost always done as part of a larger suspension swap project.

How it works: A steering rack mounts between the frame rails (or to an aftermarket crossmember) and connects directly to the spindles through inner and outer tie rod ends. The rack eliminates the drag link, center link, and idler arm used with a steering box. Power assist comes from either a hydraulic pump or an integrated electric motor (EPAS rack).

Why builders choose rack-and-pinion:

• Tightest, most precise steering feel of any option
• Eliminates play and vagueness inherent in recirculating-ball systems
• Reduces the number of steering linkage components (fewer wear points)
• Modern EPAS racks (like the Mustang S550 electric rack) provide adjustable assist with no hydraulic system

Limitations:

• Requires a front suspension swap (Mustang II IFS, Crown Vic subframe, or aftermarket IFS kit)
• Highest total cost when including the suspension ($1,500 to $5,000+)
• Not a standalone steering upgrade; it is part of a comprehensive front-end project
• Significantly longer installation time (20 to 80 hours depending on scope)

Comparison Table: EPAS vs Hydraulic Box vs Rack-and-Pinion

Factor	EPAS Electric	Hydraulic Box Swap	Rack-and-Pinion
Estimated cost	$1,450-$1,700	$400-$900	$1,500-$5,000+
Installation time	4-10 hours	8-16 hours	20-80 hours
Difficulty	Beginner-Intermediate	Intermediate	Advanced
Steering ratio improvement	No (keeps factory box)	Yes (14:1 available)	Yes (fastest feel)
Hydraulic fluid/pump	None	Yes	Optional (EPAS rack eliminates it)
Maintenance	Minimal (electrical only)	Fluid checks, hose inspection	Varies by type
Steering feel	Good, adjustable	Natural, familiar	Best precision
Requires suspension swap	No	No	Yes
Best paired with	Stock or mildly modified trucks	Any build level	Crown Vic swap, Mustang II IFS

Generation-Specific Options and Fitment

1948-1952 F-1 (Generation 1)

The earliest Ford trucks present the biggest challenge because the steering geometry, frame dimensions, and column design differ substantially from later models. Options include:

• EPAS Performance kit (Model 1024): Covers 1948-1966 trucks with floor shift. The electric assist unit replaces a section of the steering column shaft. Price runs approximately $1,650.
• CMW Trucks hydraulic conversion kit (48-52): Includes a power steering box, mounting brackets, hardware, pitman arm, and hoses. Works with most power steering pumps (pump sold separately).
• Mustang II IFS swap: Companies like Heidts, TCI Engineering, and Fatman Fabrications offer complete front suspension kits that include rack-and-pinion steering. This is a major project but solves steering, braking, and ride quality in one package.

Note: Column shift trucks require additional planning. The EPAS Performance kit is designed for floor shift models. If your truck has column shift, verify compatibility or plan a floor shift conversion.

1953-1956 F-100 (Generation 2)

The second-generation trucks share much of the same architecture as the 1948-1952 trucks but with updated styling and some chassis improvements. The conversion landscape is similar:

• EPAS Performance kit (Model 1024): Same kit as the 1948-1952 trucks, covering 1948-1966 floor shift F-100s.
• Classic Performance Products (CPP) 400-series box kit: A hydraulic conversion that includes a new power steering box, mounting brackets, hardware, pitman arm, and hoses. Designed to bolt to the factory frame-rail mounting location. Available through CJ Pony Parts and CMW Trucks.
• Mid Fifty F-100 Parts: Specializes in 1953-1956 F-100 parts and offers power steering conversion components including the CPP kit and related hardware.

1957-1960 F-100 (Generation 3)

The third generation introduced a wider cab and revised frame. Power steering options include:

• EPAS Performance kit (Model 1024): Covers these years as part of the 1948-1966 range.
• CMW Trucks / CPP 400-series box kit (57-60): Generation-specific hydraulic conversion with a power steering box sized for the 1957-1960 frame mounts.
• Performance Online rack-and-pinion kit: A direct bolt-on rack-and-pinion system for 1957-1964 straight-axle trucks. Includes new steering arms to correct Ackermann geometry and reduce bump steer. Power steering pump and hoses sold separately.

1961-1966 F-100 (Generation 4)

Factory power steering became a more widely ordered option during this era. If your truck was not ordered with it, you have several conversion paths:

• EPAS Performance kit (Model 1024): Works with 1961-1966 floor shift trucks.
• Charp Industries conversion kit (61-64): A hydraulic box conversion designed specifically for these years with all mounting hardware included.
• Factory power steering retrofit: Since Ford offered power steering during this generation, factory components from a power-steering-equipped donor truck can sometimes be sourced and installed. This requires the correct steering box, pump, bracket, lines, and pitman arm from a matching year.
• Performance Online rack-and-pinion kit (1957-1964): Same kit as the third generation, using the straight-axle platform.

1965-1972 F-100 (Generation 5 — Bumpside)

The fifth generation is one of the most popular for restomod builds. Factory power steering was common but not universal. Conversions for trucks without it include:

• EPAS Performance kit (Model 1005): Specifically designed for 1967-1972 F-100 trucks. Priced at approximately $1,450. A separate kit covers 1965-1966 models.
• Borgeson power steering box upgrade: Replaces the manual box with a compact Delphi 600-series power steering box that bolts to the factory mounting location. Includes a faster 14:1 steering ratio. This is the most popular hydraulic conversion for Bumpsides.
• Autokrafters conversion kit (1965-1979): A complete hydraulic power steering kit for Twin I-Beam 2WD trucks, including the steering box, pump bracket, and hoses.
• Crown Vic front subframe swap: The most popular suspension upgrade for Bumpsides. The 2003-2011 Crown Vic subframe includes rack-and-pinion power steering, disc brakes, and IFS in a single package. See the full Crown Vic swap guide for details.

1973-1979 F-100 (Generation 6 — Dentside)

Most Dentside trucks came with factory power steering, but some base-model trucks did not. If yours is manual:

• EPAS Performance kit (Model 1014): Covers 1973-1979 F-100 and F-150 trucks. Priced at approximately $1,650.
• Borgeson power steering conversion kit: Bolt-in hydraulic conversion with the Delphi 600-series box, pump, bracket, and hoses.
• Factory donor swap: Power steering components from a donor Dentside with factory power steering are a direct bolt-on swap. Salvage yard sourcing can keep costs under $300 for a complete pump, box, bracket, and hose set.

1980-1983 F-100 (Generation 7)

Nearly all seventh-generation trucks left the factory with power steering. If you have a rare manual-steering example, factory power steering parts from a 1980-1983 F-150 with power steering will bolt directly onto the F-100 frame and engine. The Borgeson and EPAS options for the sixth generation also apply here.

Pairing Power Steering with Other Upgrades

Crown Vic Swap: Rack-and-Pinion Included

If you are planning a Crown Vic front subframe swap, you get rack-and-pinion power steering automatically as part of the package. The 2003-2011 Crown Vic subframe includes a hydraulic power steering rack. Some builders go a step further and swap in a 2015-2023 Mustang S550 electric steering rack using a conversion kit from Range Industries, which eliminates the hydraulic system entirely and provides a quicker steering ratio with better road feel.

There is no reason to buy a separate power steering conversion if you are doing a Crown Vic swap. The rack is part of the deal.

Mustang II IFS: Rack-and-Pinion Included

A Mustang II IFS conversion from Heidts, TCI Engineering, or Fatman Fabrications includes a Fox Mustang-style (1979-1993 Mustang) steering rack. This is a power rack-and-pinion unit that handles steering and suspension in one installation. Like the Crown Vic swap, a separate power steering conversion is unnecessary.

Suspension Upgrades Without a Full Swap

If you are keeping the factory front suspension but adding upgraded springs, shocks, or a sway bar, an EPAS or hydraulic box conversion pairs perfectly. These conversions work with the stock steering linkage (drag link, tie rods, and pitman arm) and do not require any suspension changes.

Steering Column Upgrades

All three power steering approaches work with aftermarket tilt steering columns from ididit or Flaming River. If you are installing a new column and adding power steering at the same time, coordinate the steering shaft dimensions. The column output shaft, any intermediate shaft with U-joints, and the steering box input shaft all need to match in diameter and spline count. Borgeson and Flaming River both manufacture steering shafts and U-joints to bridge common fitment gaps.

Suppliers and Cost Summary

Supplier	Products	Approximate Price Range
EPAS Performance	Electric power steering kits for all generations	$1,450-$1,700
Borgeson	Hydraulic power steering boxes, conversion kits, steering shafts	$500-$900
Classic Performance Products (CPP)	400-series hydraulic power steering box kits (1948-1960)	$400-$700
CMW Trucks	CPP-based hydraulic kits, generation-specific hardware (1948-1960)	$400-$700
Charp Industries	1961-1964 hydraulic conversion kits	$400-$600
Autokrafters	1965-1979 Twin I-Beam hydraulic conversion kits	$500-$800
Performance Online	Rack-and-pinion kits, power steering pumps and brackets	$700-$1,200
CJ Pony Parts	EPAS kits, CPP kits, Borgeson kits, individual components	Varies by product
Alan Grove Components	Power steering pump brackets (engine-specific)	$80-$150
Summit Racing / JEGS	EPAS kits, Borgeson kits, universal hardware	Varies by product

Installation Tips

Match the pump to the box. Not all power steering pumps deliver the same pressure and flow. A Saginaw-style pump delivers 800 to 1,100 PSI and is a common choice for aftermarket conversions. Ford’s C-II pump works as well. Make sure the pump output matches what the steering box requires. Overpressure can damage seals; underpressure makes steering heavy.

Route hoses away from heat. High-pressure power steering hoses should be routed away from exhaust manifolds and headers. Hydraulic fluid breaks down at high temperatures, and a hose failure near the exhaust creates a fire risk. Use insulating sleeves on any section that must pass near heat sources.

Bleed the hydraulic system thoroughly. Air in the power steering system causes a groaning noise, jerky steering, and premature pump wear. Fill the reservoir, turn the wheel lock to lock several times with the engine off to push air out, then start the engine and repeat. Top off the fluid as the level drops. Some builders use a vacuum bleeder for a more thorough job.

Check the steering shaft for binding. After installing a power steering box or EPAS unit, turn the wheel through its full range of travel (lock to lock) multiple times. Check for any tight spots, binding, or clicking. Binding is usually caused by a universal joint at too steep an angle or a steering shaft that is too long and bottoming out. Fix this before you drive the truck. Binding can cause a momentary loss of steering control.

Use the correct fluid. Most power steering systems specify Type F ATF or a dedicated power steering fluid. Do not assume they are interchangeable. Check the box and pump manufacturer’s recommendation and use that fluid exclusively. Mixing fluid types can damage seals and cause erratic steering behavior.

Verify the pitman arm fits your drag link. When swapping to a new power steering box, the pitman arm taper must match your existing drag link. Some conversion kits include a pitman arm; others require you to reuse the factory arm or source a specific replacement. If the taper does not match, the connection will be loose and dangerous. Never rely on a cotter pin alone to hold a mismatched joint.

Get an alignment after installation. Any steering modification changes the geometry at the wheels. After installation, set the toe alignment (and verify caster and camber if you disturbed the suspension). An improperly aligned truck will eat tires and pull to one side.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does an F100 power steering conversion cost?

The total cost depends on the conversion type. An EPAS electric power steering kit from EPAS Performance runs $1,450 to $1,700 installed with basic tools. A hydraulic power steering box swap using a Borgeson or CPP kit costs $400 to $900 for the kit, plus $80 to $150 for a pump bracket and $50 to $100 for hoses if not included. A rack-and-pinion conversion via a Crown Vic swap or Mustang II IFS kit ranges from $1,500 to $5,000 or more, since the steering is part of a complete front suspension package.

Can I add power steering to my F100 without removing the steering box?

Yes. An EPAS (Electric Power Assist Steering) kit adds an electric motor inline on the steering column shaft without removing or replacing the factory steering box. The motor provides adjustable assist while the original box remains in place. This is the least invasive conversion option and the only one that does not require any work under the truck at the steering box mounting location.

What is the easiest power steering conversion for an F100?

The EPAS electric kit is the easiest to install. It requires no hydraulic plumbing, no pump mounting, and no steering box removal. The electric motor unit bolts inline on the steering column, and wiring connects to a switched 12V power source. Average installation time is 4 to 10 hours with basic hand tools. The main trade-off is that the factory steering ratio does not change, so the steering is lighter but still requires the same number of turns lock to lock.

Is EPAS electric steering better than a hydraulic power steering conversion?

Neither is universally better because they solve different problems. EPAS is simpler to install, requires no maintenance, produces no fluid leaks, and offers adjustable assist. Hydraulic power steering provides a more natural steering feel that most drivers prefer, allows a faster steering ratio (14:1 with a Borgeson box versus 20:1 or more with the factory manual box), and costs less upfront. If you want the simplest installation with no ongoing maintenance, choose EPAS. If you want a faster steering ratio and a more traditional feel, choose a hydraulic box swap.

Do I need a power steering conversion if I am doing a Crown Vic swap?

No. The Crown Vic front subframe includes rack-and-pinion power steering as part of the assembly. If you are planning a Crown Vic swap, the steering is already handled. The same applies to a Mustang II IFS conversion, which includes a Fox Mustang-style power steering rack. A separate power steering conversion is only needed if you are keeping the factory front suspension and steering box.

What power steering conversion works with an aftermarket tilt column?

All three conversion types work with aftermarket tilt columns from ididit or Flaming River. The key is matching the steering shaft dimensions. An EPAS unit mounts on the column shaft between the column and the firewall. A hydraulic box swap uses the same connection point as the factory box. In both cases, you may need a new intermediate steering shaft with U-joints to connect the column output to the box input. Borgeson and Flaming River both manufacture steering shafts and U-joints for common fitment combinations.

Can I install an F100 power steering conversion myself?

Yes. An EPAS installation is a beginner-to-intermediate project that most home mechanics can complete in a single day. A hydraulic box swap is an intermediate project that takes a weekend and requires routing hoses, mounting a pump, and possibly shortening a steering shaft. A rack-and-pinion conversion via a full suspension swap is an advanced project that typically takes 40 to 80 hours and may require welding and fabrication. For the EPAS and hydraulic box options, basic hand tools, a floor jack, and jack stands are all you need.

Keep Building

Power steering is one piece of the daily-driver puzzle. If you are turning your F-100 into a truck you can drive every day, check out the daily driver build guide for the full list of upgrades that matter most. Adding air conditioning is another comfort upgrade that pairs well with power steering, especially in warmer climates. And if you are just getting started with your first F-100 project, the first project truck guide walks you through the best approach from day one.