7.3L Godzilla Swap Guide for Ford F-100 Trucks

Why the Godzilla Is the New Swap King

Ford introduced the 7.3L “Godzilla” pushrod V8 in the 2020 Super Duty F-250 and F-350, and the swap community noticed immediately. Here was a brand-new, iron-block, aluminum-head pushrod engine making 430 horsepower and 475 lb-ft of torque from the factory (485 lb-ft in 2023+ applications), with displacement, simplicity, and aftermarket potential that rival anything from GM. Within two years, swap kits, standalone harnesses, and motor mounts started appearing for classic Fords. By 2025, the Godzilla had established itself as the most exciting Ford-powered swap option for F-100 builders who want serious power without the complexity of a dual-overhead-cam engine.

The appeal is straightforward. The Godzilla is a pushrod engine, which means it is narrower than the Coyote 5.0, easier to work on, and does not require a complicated variable valve timing system to make power. It uses port fuel injection rather than direct injection, keeping the fuel system simpler. And at 445 cubic inches of displacement, it has massive headroom for aftermarket camshafts that push output well past 500 horsepower on pump gas with no forced induction.

If you have been watching LS swaps dominate the classic truck world because of their combination of power, simplicity, and low cost, the Godzilla is Ford’s answer — and it lets you keep a Blue Oval under the hood of your Blue Oval truck.

Godzilla 7.3L Engine Specs

Before you plan the swap, understand what you are working with. The Godzilla is a big engine in every sense.

Specification	Detail
Displacement	7.3L (445 cubic inches)
Architecture	Pushrod OHV, 2 valves per cylinder
Block	Cast iron
Heads	Aluminum
Bore x Stroke	4.220 in x 3.976 in (107.2 mm x 101.0 mm)
Compression Ratio	10.5:1
Horsepower	430 hp @ 5,500 RPM
Torque	475 lb-ft @ 4,000 RPM (485 lb-ft in 2023+ applications)
Fuel System	Port fuel injection (PFI)
Width (valve cover to valve cover)	~25.5 inches
Length (bellhousing to timing cover)	~24 inches
Deck Height	~9.50 inches
Bore Spacing	4.53 inches
Bellhousing Pattern	Ford modular (same as Coyote, 5.4L)
Valve Lift (stock)	0.539 in intake / 0.600 in exhaust

The key physical takeaway: the Godzilla is about 4.5 inches narrower than the Coyote thanks to its pushrod design, roughly the same length as a Ford FE big-block, but taller than a 351 Windsor due to its tall deck height and factory intake manifold. Width is not the problem in an F-100 engine bay. Height can be.

Godzilla vs Coyote vs LS: Quick Comparison

Builders choosing a modern swap for their F-100 usually narrow the field to three engines. Here is how they compare for swap purposes.

Feature	Ford 7.3L Godzilla	Ford 5.0L Coyote	GM LS (5.3/6.0/6.2)
Architecture	Pushrod OHV	DOHC 32-valve	Pushrod OHV
Stock HP	430	412-486 (by year)	285-430 (by variant)
Stock Torque	475-485 lb-ft	390-420 lb-ft	325-460 lb-ft
Displacement	445 ci	302 ci	325-376 ci
Engine Width	~25.5 in	~30 in	~24-26 in
Engine Height	Tall (intake adds height)	Moderate	Compact
Fuel System	Port injection	Direct + port (Gen 3)	Port injection (truck)
Wiring Complexity	Moderate	High	Low-moderate
Aftermarket Cam Gains	100-200+ hp	Limited (requires VVT work)	50-100+ hp
Crate Engine Cost	~$8,900	~$8,000-$12,000	~$5,000-$7,500
Salvage Engine Cost	$2,000-$4,000	$3,000-$6,000	$500-$2,000
Bellhousing	Ford modular	Ford modular	GM
Brand Match	Ford-in-Ford	Ford-in-Ford	GM-in-Ford

The Godzilla wins on torque, displacement headroom, and mechanical simplicity. The Coyote wins on peak RPM potential and factory refinement. The LS wins on cost and compactness. For an F-100 builder who wants to stay all-Ford with maximum torque and easy wrenching, the Godzilla is the clear choice. For a deeper dive into all three engines with full cost breakdowns, see our LS vs Coyote vs Godzilla comparison.

The Pushrod Advantage

If you have worked on a Coyote, you know that the DOHC heads, variable valve timing phasers, timing chains, and associated electronics add layers of complexity. Adjusting valve lash, swapping cams, or even pulling a valve cover is a bigger job on a Coyote than on any pushrod engine.

The Godzilla’s overhead-valve architecture means:

• Narrower package. No cam towers or timing chain covers bulging out from the heads. The engine is 4.5 inches narrower than a Coyote, which matters for header fitment and steering clearance in an F-100 engine bay.
• Simple cam swaps. Changing the camshaft on a pushrod engine is a well-understood procedure that any experienced home builder can handle. You pull the intake manifold, remove the lifters, slide the old cam out, and slide the new one in. On the Godzilla, this operation can unlock 100 to 200 or more additional horsepower.
• Easier maintenance. Valve adjustments, rocker arm replacement, and head gasket work are all more accessible on a pushrod engine. You can see and reach everything without removing cam covers, timing chain tensioners, or VVT solenoids.
• Fewer electronic dependencies. The Godzilla does use variable cam timing (VCT) on the intake side, but the system is simpler than the Coyote’s dual-cam VVT setup. Aftermarket VCT limiters let you lock out the variable timing entirely if you prefer a fully mechanical cam profile.

For a truck that lives in a home garage and gets worked on by its owner, pushrod simplicity is not a small advantage. It is the reason the LS became the default swap engine, and it is the reason the Godzilla is following the same trajectory — but with a Ford bellhousing pattern.

Sourcing the Engine

You have three paths to a Godzilla engine, each with different cost and risk profiles.

Ford Performance Crate Engine

The Ford Performance 7.3L Godzilla crate engine (part number M-6007-73B) retails for approximately $8,900. You get a brand-new long-block with a warranty, factory-spec assembly, and the confidence that nothing is worn or damaged. The crate engine does not include engine management, a starter, or a front accessory drive, so budget an additional $2,000 to $3,500 for those items depending on your ECU and accessory choices.

For builders who want more power out of the box, Ford Performance also offers the Megazilla (M-6007-MZ73) at $22,995. The Megazilla uses CNC-ported aluminum heads, Mahle forged pistons, Callies forged H-beam connecting rods, and a 92mm throttle body from the Shelby GT500. Output is 615 horsepower and 640 lb-ft of torque on pump gas, with more than 500 lb-ft available from 2,500 to 6,000 RPM. The Megazilla is serious money, but it is a ready-to-run crate engine making supercar power from a pushrod V8.

Salvage-Yard Takeout

This is where the Godzilla swap gets interesting as a budget play. The 7.3L has been in production since 2020 in every gas-powered Super Duty F-250, F-350, and chassis cab. As these trucks accumulate miles, get into accidents, or age out of fleet service, salvage-yard Godzilla engines are becoming steadily more available.

Expect to pay $2,000 to $4,000 for a low-mileage salvage-yard Godzilla, depending on your region and whether the engine comes with accessories. A Ford Muscle feature documented a complete salvage-yard Godzilla build (engine, cam, lifters, intake components, ignition hardware, and damper) that landed under $4,000 total. That is LS-junkyard territory for a brand-new-architecture Ford V8 making 430 horsepower before modifications.

When buying salvage, inspect the engine carefully. Check for coolant in the oil, spun bearings, and collision damage to the front accessories. Pull a valve cover if possible and look for sludge or scoring. Engines from trucks with less than 60,000 miles are ideal. Request the VIN and check the vehicle history to confirm the truck was not submerged or severely overheated.

Ford Dealer Takeoff

Some Ford dealers and wholesalers sell brand-new takeoff engines pulled from Super Duty trucks that were immediately re-engined (for example, trucks converted to diesel or specialty upfit vehicles). These engines have zero miles and come at a discount compared to the crate engine, typically $5,000 to $7,000. Availability is inconsistent, so check with Super Duty dealerships and online Ford parts wholesalers.

Transmission Pairings

The Godzilla uses the Ford modular bellhousing pattern, the same pattern as the Coyote 5.0 and the 5.4L Triton. Any transmission that bolts to those engines will physically bolt to the Godzilla.

10R140 (10-Speed Automatic)

This is the factory transmission behind the Godzilla in the Super Duty. It is a 10-speed automatic rated for 1,033 lb-ft of input torque, wildly overbuilt for a 475 lb-ft engine, which means it will survive anything you throw at it. The downside is size: the 10R140 is a large, heavy transmission designed for a full-size truck. It fits in 1967-1979 F-100s without major tunnel work, but earlier trucks may need modifications. If you are pulling a Super Duty donor, bringing the 10R140 with the engine is the path of least resistance.

10R80 (10-Speed Automatic)

The 10R80 from the Ford F-150 and Mustang GT is a lighter, more compact 10-speed that bolts directly to the Godzilla’s bellhousing pattern. It is better suited to the tighter confines of early F-100 frames and tunnels. The V8 version of the 10R80 handles 430 horsepower without issue in stock form. For builds pushing 550+ horsepower, consider a built 10R80 with upgraded clutch packs.

6R80 (6-Speed Automatic)

The 6R80 from the 2011-2017 F-150 and Mustang is a proven swap transmission with widespread support. It is compact, well-documented for classic Ford swaps, and has a large aftermarket for performance builds. Adapter considerations are minimal since it shares the modular bellhousing pattern.

Manual Options

Quickdraw Engines offers an adapter to mate the Godzilla to a Tremec TR4050 heavy-duty manual transmission. The Tremec T56 Magnum and Magnum XL also bolt to the Ford modular bellhousing pattern with the appropriate bellhousing or adapter. A manual-transmission Godzilla F-100 is a rare and rewarding combination, though you will need to sort out a clutch pedal assembly, hydraulic throwout bearing, and driveshaft.

Motor Mounts and Swap Kits

Motor mounts are the foundation of any engine swap. The Godzilla swap market has matured rapidly, and generation-specific options now exist for most F-100 builds.

For 1973-1979 F-100s (Generation 6)

Swapzilla offers a dedicated Godzilla engine and transmission mount kit for 1973-1979 F-100 and Bronco chassis. The kit includes engine mounts, engine towers, a crossmember, and all hardware needed to position the Godzilla and a 6R80 or similar transmission. This is a bolt-in solution designed by RC3 Technologies that avoids most custom fabrication.

For 1967-1972 F-100s (Generation 5)

TD Motion makes a weld-in motor mount plate kit that accommodates frames of varying width, from narrow hot rods to F-100 pickups. The plates are laser-cut steel with a clean, engineered appearance. TD Motion also sells Godzilla-specific swap accessories including oil pans, serpentine pulley kits, and coil covers designed for swap applications.

For 1948-1966 F-100s (Generations 1-4)

Builders swapping a Godzilla into early F-100s typically use one of two approaches:

1. Crown Vic subframe swap first, then Godzilla mounts. If your truck already has (or you plan to install) a Crown Vic front subframe, Outcast AutoWorks sells adjustable Godzilla motor mounts designed for the Crown Vic crossmember. These billet mounts carry a lifetime warranty and let you fine-tune engine position for header and driveshaft clearance.

2. Universal weld-in mounts. Companies like The Infamous Project, ICT Billet, and Swapzilla offer universal Godzilla motor mount kits that can be welded to any frame width. These require measuring, fitting, and welding skill, but they work for any generation F-100 frame.

For pre-1967 trucks, the Crown Vic subframe route is strongly recommended because it also upgrades your suspension, steering, and brakes in one project. See the Crown Vic swap guide for a complete walkthrough.

The Height Challenge

The single biggest physical challenge of a Godzilla swap is engine height. The 7.3L has a 9.50-inch deck height (compared to 8.2 inches for a 302 Windsor), and the factory intake manifold sits high on top of the engine. The overall height from the oil pan rail to the top of the intake manifold is significantly taller than a small-block Ford or an LS.

What this means in practice, by generation:

1948-1952 F-1 (Generation 1)

These trucks have a relatively tall hood with a flat top. The Godzilla fits under the hood with a swap-specific low-profile intake manifold or the Megazilla’s low-profile unit. A cowl-induction hood scoop may be needed depending on your mount height and intake choice.

1953-1956 F-100 (Generation 2)

The sloped hoodline of the second generation is tighter than the earlier trucks. Plan for a cowl hood or a functional hood scoop. Some builders notch the firewall slightly to push the engine back and lower its position relative to the hood.

1957-1960 F-100 (Generation 3)

Similar clearance challenges to the second generation. The engine bay is wide enough, but hood height is limited. Verify clearance with your specific mount kit before ordering a hood.

1961-1966 F-100 (Generation 4)

The Unibody trucks (1961-1963) are the tightest fit due to the integrated cab-and-bed design. A low-profile intake manifold is essential. The 1964-1966 trucks have a more conventional body-on-frame layout with slightly more room, but hood clearance is still a concern.

1967-1972 F-100 (Generation 5)

The Bumpside trucks have a taller hood and a larger engine bay than any previous generation. The Godzilla fits well here with the factory intake manifold in most configurations. This is the easiest generation for a Godzilla swap from a clearance standpoint.

1973-1979 F-100 (Generation 6)

The Dentside trucks share the roomy engine bay of the fifth generation. The Godzilla drops in without hood clearance issues in most builds. The wide frame rails and generous tunnel also accommodate larger transmissions like the 10R140.

The solution for tight hoods: TD Motion, Holley, and Ford Performance (on the Megazilla) offer low-profile intake manifolds that reduce the overall engine height by 1 to 2 inches. For most pre-1967 trucks, a low-profile intake is not optional — it is required.

Engine Management and Wiring

Wiring is where many engine swaps stall, and the Godzilla is no exception. The good news is that the aftermarket has caught up quickly, and several clean solutions exist.

Holley Terminator X Max

Holley offers a complete Terminator X Max kit (part number 550-1431) specifically designed for the 2020-2022 Godzilla engine with stock coils. The kit includes the ECU, a plug-and-play engine harness with labeled connectors, a drive-by-wire sub-harness, and a built-in starter solenoid lead. The harness includes connectors for both the factory Ford oil pressure sensor and a standard 100 PSI transducer, with either usable without modification.

One important note: the factory Godzilla throttle body is not compatible with Holley EFI. However, a 2011-2017 Coyote throttle body bolts directly to the factory Godzilla intake manifold with no modifications and works with the Holley system. Budget $1,500 to $2,200 for the complete Holley Terminator X Max Godzilla kit.

Ford PCM with Standalone Harness

If you prefer to keep the factory Ford PCM, companies like The Infamous Project sell standalone engine harness packages that connect all factory sensors to the Ford ECM. This approach retains all factory calibrations and diagnostics. The Infamous Project offers a complete Godzilla swap package including the engine, wiring, and essentials (air filter, gas pedal, MAF sensor, and tuning tools) for approximately $10,000 to $12,000.

Godzilla Shop (godzillashop.ca) offers control pack options compatible with the 6R140, 10R80, and 10R140 transmissions, providing a pre-configured Ford PCM and harness bundle.

Wiring Tips

Regardless of your ECU choice:

• Run the engine harness before the engine goes in. It is far easier to route wires with an empty engine bay.
• The Godzilla uses an electronic throttle body (drive-by-wire), so you need an electronic accelerator pedal. These are available from Ford Performance or can be sourced from a Super Duty donor.
• Plan your ground locations carefully. The Godzilla ECU is sensitive to poor grounding, which causes rough idle, misfires, and erratic gauge readings.
• If you are running the factory PCM, you will likely need a custom tune to delete the Super Duty-specific features (tire pressure monitoring, stability control, etc.) that the PCM expects to see.

For more on harness options across all swap engines, see the wiring harness guide.

Fuel System Requirements

The Godzilla runs port fuel injection at approximately 58 PSI. Your original F-100 mechanical fuel pump and steel fuel lines are not compatible.

You need:

• In-tank electric fuel pump rated for 58+ PSI and adequate flow (at least 255 liters per hour for a stock-power Godzilla, more for modified builds). Aeromotive, Walbro, and Holley all make drop-in EFI fuel pump modules.
• Return-style fuel system with a return line from the fuel rail back to the tank and a fuel pressure regulator (unless your ECU controls fuel pressure electronically).
• EFI-rated fuel line: stainless braided AN line or push-lock hose rated for EFI pressure. Do not reuse the original low-pressure fuel lines.
• Fuel filter rated for EFI pressure, mounted inline between the pump and the engine.

If your truck already has an EFI swap (for example, a fuel-injected 302 or a Coyote), your existing fuel system may work with minor modifications. If you are converting from a carbureted engine, budget $400 to $800 for a complete EFI fuel system.

Cooling and Exhaust

Cooling

The Godzilla makes more heat than any small-block Ford that was ever factory-installed in an F-100. Plan for an oversized aluminum crossflow radiator with a minimum 2-inch core thickness. Champion, Griffin, Cold Case, and Mishimoto all make aluminum radiators for common F-100 generations. Pair the radiator with dual electric fans and a proper shroud. Budget $400 to $800 for the cooling system.

If you plan to run air conditioning, size the radiator and condenser together. An AC-equipped Godzilla F-100 in summer traffic needs serious cooling capacity. See the radiator and cooling guide for generation-specific recommendations.

Exhaust

Headers are the biggest exhaust challenge in any swap. The Godzilla’s exhaust ports exit at a slightly different angle and spacing than a Windsor or FE engine, so off-the-shelf classic Ford headers do not fit. Your options:

• Swap-specific headers from TD Motion, Kincer Chassis, or The Infamous Project. These are designed for the Godzilla in a swap application and account for steering shaft, frame rail, and starter clearance. Budget $400 to $900.
• Custom fabricated headers from a local exhaust shop. Bring the truck with the engine mocked up so the fabricator can work around your specific combination of frame, steering, and accessories. Budget $800 to $1,500.
• Factory Super Duty exhaust manifolds as a temporary solution. The cast iron manifolds from the donor truck will bolt on and get you running, but they are restrictive and heavy. Plan to upgrade to headers once the truck is driving.

Aftermarket Cam Upgrades

This is where the Godzilla separates itself from the Coyote for swap builders. Changing the camshaft on a pushrod engine is a well-understood, moderately difficult job that yields dramatic power gains.

What Is Available

• COMP Cams offers Stage 1 through Stage 3 Godzilla camshafts. Stage 1 adds approximately 60-75 horsepower with a mild idle and stock-like drivability. Stage 3 adds approximately 100 horsepower and works well in lighter vehicles like an F-100.
• Texas Speed & Performance (TSP) sells Stage 1 through Stage 3 Godzilla cams. The TSP Stage 3 has been documented at 175 horsepower over stock in crank-measured dyno testing.
• Brian Tooley Racing (BTR) offers the Truck Norris camshaft, which adds approximately 102 horsepower and 60 lb-ft of torque over stock. A BTR cam in a salvage-yard Godzilla produced over 620 horsepower on pump fuel in a documented Ford Muscle build.

What You Need for a Cam Swap

A cam swap on the Godzilla requires removing the intake manifold, lifter guides, and lifters to access the camshaft. You will also need:

• New camshaft and matching lifters (always replace lifters with a new cam)
• VCT limiter kit (locks out the variable cam timing for a consistent cam profile)
• Updated valve springs if the cam has higher lift than stock
• A custom ECU tune to match the new cam profile

The cam swap alone takes 8 to 12 hours for a competent builder with the engine in the truck. Many builders do the cam swap before installation, which is significantly easier.

Power Levels

Build Level	Components	Estimated HP	Estimated Cost
Stock	Factory cam and tune	430 hp	$0
Stage 1 cam	Aftermarket cam, lifters, tune	490-505 hp	$1,200-$1,800
Stage 2 cam	Hotter cam, springs, tune	530-560 hp	$1,500-$2,200
Stage 3 cam + intake	Aggressive cam, ported heads or intake, tune	580-630+ hp	$2,500-$5,000

These numbers assume naturally aspirated, pump-gas builds. The Godzilla’s iron block and conservative 10.5:1 compression ratio make it an excellent candidate for boost as well. Turbo and supercharger kits are in development from multiple manufacturers, with builds cracking 1,000+ horsepower in competition applications.

Total Cost Breakdown

Component	Salvage Build	Crate Engine Build	Premium Build
Engine	$2,000-$4,000	$8,900	$22,995 (Megazilla)
Transmission	$500-$1,500 (salvage)	$1,500-$3,000	$2,000-$4,000
Motor mount kit	$250-$500	$250-$500	$400-$800
ECU and wiring harness	$800-$1,500	$1,500-$2,200	$1,500-$2,200
Fuel system	$400-$800	$400-$800	$600-$1,000
Cooling (radiator, fans)	$300-$600	$400-$800	$600-$1,000
Exhaust headers	$400-$900	$400-$900	$800-$1,500
Accessory drive	$200-$500	Included (crate)	Included (crate)
Driveshaft	$200-$400	$200-$400	$300-$500
Throttle pedal, sensors	$100-$300	$100-$300	$100-$300
Cam + tune (optional)	$1,200-$2,000	$1,200-$2,000	Included
Miscellaneous hardware	$200-$400	$200-$400	$300-$500
Total (DIY labor)	$6,500-$13,000	$15,000-$20,000	$30,000-$35,000+

The salvage build is the budget path and the most exciting development for F-100 builders. A wrecked 2020-2023 Super Duty with a good engine can supply the Godzilla, transmission, wiring harness, throttle pedal, and accessories in one purchase. Pair that with a cam swap, a Holley Terminator X, and a motor mount kit, and you have a 550+ horsepower all-Ford F-100 for under $12,000 in parts.

Shop labor for a complete engine swap adds $3,000 to $8,000 depending on your area and the scope of work.

Swap Suppliers and Resources

• TD Motion: Motor mount kits, oil pans, serpentine pulley kits, swap-specific headers, and a comprehensive Godzilla swap guide on their website.
• Kincer Chassis: Godzilla swap components and build consulting for classic Ford trucks.
• Swapzilla (RC3 Technologies): Generation-specific engine and transmission mount kits for 1973-1979 F-100 and Bronco, plus universal weld-in mount kits.
• The Infamous Project: Complete Godzilla swap packages including engine, wiring, and essentials. Weld-in motor mount kits for Ford applications.
• Outcast AutoWorks: Adjustable Godzilla motor mounts for Crown Vic subframe swaps into F-100s. Lifetime warranty.
• ICT Billet: Universal billet Godzilla motor mounts and adapter plates.
• Holley: Terminator X Max ECU kits, engine harnesses, drive-by-wire harnesses, and swap accessory systems.
• Late Model Restoration (LMR): Ford Performance crate engines, swap parts, and Godzilla-specific accessories.
• Ford Performance: Godzilla and Megazilla crate engines, control packs, and accessory drive kits.

For a broader overview of every engine that fits an F-100, see the engine swap guide. For generation-specific engine compatibility and factory options, check the engine compatibility guide. Transmission options for all swaps are covered in the transmission guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does a Ford 7.3 Godzilla swap cost?

A DIY Godzilla swap into an F-100 costs $6,500 to $13,000 using a salvage-yard engine, or $15,000 to $20,000 with a Ford Performance crate engine. The salvage build includes the engine, a used transmission, motor mount kit, Holley Terminator X wiring, fuel system, cooling, exhaust headers, and driveshaft. Shop labor adds $3,000 to $8,000 on top of parts costs. A premium build with the Megazilla crate engine and top-tier components can reach $30,000 or more.

Will the Godzilla fit in my F-100 without cutting the firewall?

The Godzilla fits in the engine bay of all seven F-100 generations without firewall modification in most configurations. Width is not an issue because the pushrod design makes the Godzilla narrower than a Coyote. Height is the primary challenge: on 1953-1966 trucks with lower hoodlines, you will likely need a low-profile intake manifold and possibly a cowl hood or functional hood scoop. On 1967-1979 trucks, the Godzilla fits under the stock hood in most builds.

What transmission bolts to the Godzilla?

The Godzilla uses the Ford modular bellhousing pattern, which is the same as the Coyote 5.0 and 5.4L Triton. The 10R140 (Super Duty 10-speed), 10R80 (F-150 10-speed), and 6R80 (F-150/Mustang 6-speed) all bolt directly to the Godzilla. The 4R70W can be mated with an adapter plate. For manual transmissions, adapter kits from Quickdraw allow the use of a Tremec TR4050 or T56 Magnum. The 10R80 is the most popular swap choice because it is compact, strong, and well-supported.

How much horsepower can a Godzilla make with a cam swap?

A cam swap on the Godzilla typically adds 60 to 175 horsepower depending on the camshaft profile. A Stage 1 cam from COMP Cams or Texas Speed brings output to approximately 490 to 505 horsepower. A Stage 3 cam with supporting modifications (valve springs, intake work, custom tune) pushes the engine past 580 to 630 horsepower on pump gas with no forced induction. One documented build using a Brian Tooley Racing cam on a salvage-yard Godzilla made over 620 horsepower.

Is the Godzilla simpler to swap than a Coyote?

Yes, in several meaningful ways. The Godzilla is a pushrod engine, so it is physically narrower (by about 4.5 inches), has fewer timing components, and does not require the complex variable valve timing electronics that the Coyote depends on. The port fuel injection system is simpler than the Coyote’s direct injection (or combined direct and port injection on Gen 3 Coyotes). Cam swaps, which are the primary power upgrade path, are dramatically easier on a pushrod engine. The main area where the Godzilla is more challenging is height — it is a taller engine than the Coyote, which can create hood clearance issues in early F-100 trucks.

Can I use a Super Duty donor truck for the whole swap?

Yes, and it is the most cost-effective approach. A wrecked or high-mileage 2020 or newer Super Duty F-250 or F-350 with the 7.3L gas engine can supply the Godzilla engine, 10R140 transmission, complete wiring harness, PCM, throttle pedal, fuel injectors, and accessory drive components. Buying the engine and transmission together from a single donor eliminates compatibility guesswork. A complete running drivetrain from a salvage Super Duty typically costs $3,000 to $6,000 depending on mileage and condition.

What oil pan do I need for a Godzilla swap?

The factory Super Duty oil pan is too deep for most classic truck applications and will hit the crossmember or front axle. TD Motion and other swap suppliers offer Godzilla-specific swap oil pans with a shallower sump designed to clear the frame rails and crossmember of classic trucks. The factory oil pump is located in the middle of the engine and driven by a jackshaft, which adds to pan depth. A swap-specific oil pan is one of the first parts you should order after the engine and mount kit.